2.4　Relative Glossary　相关术语

2.4.1　Design Term　设计词汇

（1）Abbe Cape：cape worn by an abbot originally. It is a sleeveless outer gar-ment or short cloak, which drapes the wearer's back, arms and chest, and fastens at the neck.

（2）Apron：an overskirt tying at the back. It is an outer protective garment that covers the front of the body.It may be worn for hygienic reasons as well as in order to protect clothing from wear and tear, or else due to a symbolic meaning.

（3）Bell Skirt：bell shaped skirt, bells out form a narrow fitted bodice. At pres-ent, the hemline of skirts can vary from short to floor-length and can vary according to cultural conceptions and the wearer's personal taste, which can be influenced by such factors as fashion and social context.

（4）Bolero：short jacket reaching to waist. The bolero is appropriate for wear-ing in slow-tempo Latin music and its associated dance orignianlly.

（5）Circular Skirt：circular piece of material with a hole cut out of center for the waist.

（6）Chic：french word meaning stylish.

（7）Culottes：a skirt divided and usually flared from hips. Originally culottes were normally closed and fastened about the leg, to the knee, by buttons, a strap and buckle, or a draw-string, and now culottes are an item of clothing and popular for ladies.

（8）Dirndl：a circular cut skirt gathered or pleated around the waist, with a waistband and falls below the knee. A dirndl is a type of traditional worn in Germa-ny, Austria, etc.The loosely dirndl based on the country-inspired fashion.

（9）Peplum：short hip frill at waist that is usually attached to a fitted jacket, bodice, blouse or dress.

（10）Bishop Sleeve：a long sleeve with fullness below the elbow, and must be gathered into a cuff. It is a type of shirt made as a loose-fitting blouse, usually deco-rated with large frills on the front and on the cuffs.

（11）Batwing Sleeve：a long sleeve with fullness at the armhole. This style is cut very large at the armhole and extends to almost the waist, tapering at the wrist.It's usually not a“set-in”sleeve, but part of the garment.

（12）Convertible Collar：a straight, pointed collar, usually on a shirt or blouse, which can be worn open down as a shawl collar or closed up as a stand collar, and it is similar to Hawaii Collar.

（13）Cowl Neckline：a soft draped neckline, the front of the bodice is cut on the bias of the material and soft folds are formed.

（14）Decollete：It is a very low cut bodice, the upper part of a woman's tor-so, comprising her neck, shoulders, back and chest, that is exposed by the neckline of her clothing. Decollete is most commonly applied to low-cut necklines of ball gowns, evening gowns, leotards, lingerie and swimsuits, etc.

（15）Dolman Sleeve：one-piece sleeve with deep cut scye, in fact, the arms-cye may extend to the waistline, in which case there will be no underarm seam in the blouse, and some of these scye are made round or oval and others square at the base.44Originally, dolman sleeve is referred to a long and loose garment with narrow sleeves and an opening in the front.

（16）Double-Breasted：a garment wrapping over in the front with a double row of buttons or fastenings. In most modern double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, while the other functional.By contrast, a single-breasted has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons.

（17）Empire Line：it is refered a high waistline of women's dress, in which has a fitted bodice ending just below the bust, giving a high-waisted appearance, and a gathered skirt which is long and loosely fitting.

（18）Eton Collar：a stiff white turned down collar as worn by boys at ETON.

（19）Fitting：trying on the garment in order to make adjustments to fit and style.

（20）High-way-men Collar：a high, large, turned down collar, sometimes ris-ing above the ears.

（21）Jabot：a neck frill or ruffles decorating the front of a shirt. It has evolved into a decorative clothing accessory consisting of lace or other fabric falling from the throat, suspended from or attached to a neckband or collar；or simply pinned at the throat.

（22）Kimono Sleeve：sleeve cut all in one with the garment, usually with a seam reach to the back part, and similar to that on traditional Chinese robes.

（23）Line：the silhouette of a garment that makes it look fashionable or un-fashionable, and silhouette is the outline of a garment.

（24）Modeling：the art of draping material on a figure to arrive at the shape of the garment.

（25）Magyar Sleeve：sleeve is cut in one with the garment with gussets let into the underarm.

（26）Raglan Sleeve：sleeve with the armhole line extending to the neck so that the shoulder section is joined to the sleeve crown without a seam.

（27）Roll Collar：any collar that softly rolls back and is not pressed flat, as op-posed to a collar with a pressed crease at the fold.

（28）Set in Sleeve：a sleeve with a crown fitting into the scye.

（29）Sample：the designing model, e. g.prototype.

（30）Vee-Neck：a neckline cut to a“V”in the front, the depth of the“V”can vary.

2.4.2　Pattern Term　纸样词汇

（1）Armhole：also known as armscye or scye.

（2）Basic Pattern/Block Pattern：a pattern that reflects the shape and posture of the figure without the inclusion of style features.45The cardboard master forms style that can be worked out.

（3）Bias：angle at which is cut in respect to the selvedge of the material. Weft at an angle of 45°to the warp.

（4）Bust Line：used for block construction and is the line on which the bust measure is taken. The bust point is found on this line, all front darts must be radiated from bust point.

（5）Crease Line/Fold Line：the line on collar and reverse/lapel folds back on.

（6）Crutch/Crotch：angle formed by parting the legs. And the crutch depth is the distance from the center front waist point to the angle formed by parting the legs.

（7）Crown/Sleeve Head：top part of the sleeve.

（8）Dart Pivoting：pivoting a dart from one site to another, and the point of dart used for dart manipulation.

（9）Dart Site：place on the bodice where the dart originates, e. g.shoulder, bust, waist etc.This site is optional and depends on fashion and style required.

（10）Draft：the outline drawing of a pattern, which has to be traced-off to ob-tain the finished pattern.

（11）Ease：for example the sleeve head measurement is longer than the arm-hole, and the“difference”is called ease. Ease is most important for woven garments cut on the straight or cross grain, allowing little or no stretch.

（12）Grading：producing a range of patterns for different sizes from a master pattern.

（13）Grain：the direction of thread in the fabric, and it referred to straight, cross and bias grain line for the woven fabric.

（14）Marker：a sheet of paper on which the component parts of a pattern are marked in preparation for placing on a lay, prior to cutting.

（15）Off Grain：the term used to describe the distortion of a woven fabric when warp and weft are not at the right angle.

（16）Pattern Cutter：one who converts ideas of fashion or style into the form of a pattern for producing clothes.

（17）Size Chart：a chart of measurements on which block pattern is based.

（18）Seam Allowance：It is the area between the edge and the stitching line on two or more pieces of material being stitched together, and sometimes called Inlay or Turnings. Such as 1cm SA in neck line, armscye, facing seams for sewing.

（19）Toile：a pattern usually in calico of a model garment. The word“toile”can refer to the fabric itself, a test garment sewn from the same material.

（20）Turn-up：used as a feature on trousers cuffs or skirts.

（21）Tolerance：the amount by which the garment measurement exceeds the body measurement.

（22）Dress Stand：a padded model or dummy of the human body for modeling garments.

Words and Expressions

abbe cape['æbei keip]修道院长披风

abbot['æbət]男修道院院长，大寺院主持

apron['eiprən]围裙

overskirt['əuvəskə：t]上裙，外裙

apparel[ə'pærəl]服装，装饰（广东话：成衣）

blouse[blauz]女装罩衣，女衬衫

figure['figəd]身段，姿态

Vee-neck[vi：-nek]V形领圈

armhole/armscye/scye['a：mhəωl/a：msai/sai]袖窿（广东话：夹圈）

bell skirt[bel skə：t]钟形裙

Bolero[bə'lεərəu]短上衣

circular skirt['sə：kjulə skə：t]圆台裙

chic[ʃi（：）k]流行的

cloak[kləuk]斗篷

balance line['bæləns lain]平衡线

harmony['ha：məni]协调，融洽

attitude['ætitju：d]姿势，态度

preserve[pri'zə：v]保持，保存

sleeveless['sli：vlis]无袖的

basic pattern/block pattern['beisik'pætən/blɔk'pætən]基本纸样

dirndl['də：ndl]紧身腰裥服装

gusset['gʌsit]三角形插料，衣袖插片

reflect[ri'flekt]反映

peplum['pepləm]褶襞短裙，裙腰剪接片

culottes[kju（：）'lɔts]裙裤

posture['pɔstʃə]姿势，体态

feature['fi：tʃə]特征

flared[flεəd]喇叭的，宽摆的

bishop sleeve['biʃəp sli：v]主教袖

cardboard['ka：dbɔ：d]纸板

bias['baiəs]斜纹

batwing sleeve['bætwiŋ sli：v]蝙蝠袖

selvedge['selvidʒ]布边

weft[weft]纬纱

Hawaii collar[ha：'waii：'kɔlə]夏威夷领

convertible collar[kən'və：təbl'kɔlə]开襟领

cowl neckline[kaul'neklain]垂褶领圈

decollete[dI'kɔltei]露胸式衣服

warp[wɔ：p]经纱

bust line[bʌst lain]胸围线

double-breasted['dʌbl-'brestid]双排扣的

bust point[bʌst pɔint]胸高点

radiate['reidieit]辐射，射线的

empire line['empaiə lain]帝国式腰线

Eton collar['i：tn'kɔlə]伊顿式阔翻领

fitting['fitiŋ]试身

crease line/fold line[kri：s lain/fəuld lain]折线

collar['kɔlə]领子

high-way-men collar[hai-wei-men'kɔlə]男装高领

rever/lapel[rev/lə'pel]襟贴，挂面

crutch/crotch[krʌtʃ/krɔtʃ]裤裆位

jabot[ʒæ'bəut]胸前装饰花边

neck frill[nek fril]领圈装饰花边

crown/sleeve head[kraun/sli：v hed]袖头

dart pivoting[da：t'pivətiŋ]移褶

kimono sleeve[ki'məunəu sli：v]和服袖

silhouette[，silu（：）'et]轮廓

modeling['mɔdliŋ]立体裁剪

dart site[da：t sait]省位

outline['aut-lain]轮廓

traced-off[treis-ɔ：f]复制

Magyar sleeve['mægja：sli：v]马扎尔袖

grain['grein]布纹，织物纹路

thread[Wred]缝线，纱线

underarm['ʌndəra：m]衣袖内侧，腋下部（广东话：袖底骨）

raglan sleeve['ræglən sli：v]牛角袖，拉格兰袖

sleeve crown[sli：v kraun]袖头

roll collar[rəul'kɔlə]翻领，青果领

set in sleeve[set in sli：v]普通袖，圆袖（广东话：夹圈袖）

prior to['praiə tu：]在前，居先

off grain[ɔ：f'grein]布纹不直

distortion[dis'tɔ：ʃən]变形，扭曲

pattern cutter['pætən'kʌtə]打板师

manipulation[mə，nipju'leiʃən]处理

size chart[saiz tʃa：t]尺码表

seam allowance/turnings[si：m ə'lauəns/'tə：niŋz]缝份（广东话：子口）

sample['sæmpl]样板

prototype['prəutətaip]原型板

toile[twa：l]样衣

calico['kælikəu]白棉布（广东话：坯布）

turn-up hem['tə：n-ʌp hem]向上翻，折下摆

dress stand[dres stænd]人体模型，胸架

padded stand[pædid stænd]泡沫人体 模型

Exercises

1.Translate the following terms into Chinese.

（1）blouse

（2）bell skirt

（3）fashion

（4）sleeveless

（5）culottes

（6）batwing sleeve

（7）trousers

（8）closed fitting

（9）frill

（10）modeling

（11）roll collar

（12）prototype

（13）scye

（14）bias grain

（15）selvedge

（16）weft

（17）warp

（18）bust

（19）dart

（20）ease

（21）S. A.

（22）calico

（23）cuff

（24）pleat

2.Explain the following fashion terms.

（1）Blouse

（2）Cape

（3）Batwing Sleeve

（4）Cowl Neckline

（5）Double-Breasted

（6）Armhole

（7）Basic Pattern

（8）Sleeve Head

（9）Seam Allowance

3.Draw the design sketch according to the following descriptions.

（1）Bolero：it is definite as a short jacket reaching the waist.

（2）Culottes：it is similar to a skirt but it is divided and usually flared from hips.

（3）Bishop sleeve：a long sleeve with fullness below the elbow, and must be gathered into a cuff.

（4）Jabot：a neck frill in the formal shirt.

（5）Raglan Sleeve：a sleeve with the armhole line extending to the neck so that the shoulder section is joined to the sleeve crown without a seam.